To call Staunton a theatrical “Force of Nature” is to almost fall into show business cliche. Exuberant, focused and massively talented, she invests emotion and intelligence into every role given to her. Acclaimed lyricist, Stephen Sondheim, consented to this revival only on the condition that Staunton was available to star in it – she’s that good.
This means that quality control is not a problem. Any lunchtime recital or evening concert is guaranteed to be richly rewarding and life-affirming. It’s not a place to take your smartphone as every rustle and creak can be heard. Musicians are instantly rewarded, however, as every arpeggio, chord and tonal variation is instantly reflected back to them, spurring them on to even more dazzling feats.
There’s some modern touches to the menu as well with vegetarian options and up-to-date cocktails. Themed nights, guest DJs and children’s facilities are all indicative of the flexible, friendly approach that comes as a welcome change to a format that has, in recent times, become stale. Party bookings and private rooms are also available.
Royal China get their dim sum just right and they have just the right combination of familiar presentation and surprise fillings. The stickiness of the rice and the delicacy of the seasonings are also spot on. Standout examples are: prawn and chive, pork and radish and fried mixed meat dumpling. Don’t forget your side dishes as too much indulgence could leave you queasy. Ho fun noodles and baked seafood rice come highly recommended.